***THE ENGINE BUILDER must check for any defects in material or manufacturing PRIOR TO INSTALLATION/ASSEMBLY. It is the responsibility of the engine builder to do these tests and inspections. If a defect is found, AllPontiac.com must be notified immediately***

1. Pressure wash the block from all sides to remove all sand and metal shavings from the manufacturing process. You may have to do this several times.
2. Pressure test the cooling jackets and the oil system before starting any machine work.
3. Decks are CNC machined to Standard deck heights. If you need a particular deck height alway measure before machining
   and ordering your pistons.
4. Deburr the block all over. Also check all threads. Chase if needed. It is new and just off of the machine. CHECK ALL OIL PASSAGES AND DEBURR IF NEEDED.
5. You will need to use a ball hone in the lifter bore to deburr the lifter bores. Check them for the proper clearance to your lifter.
   Some need more clearance than others, so check this out. A stock lifter will go in this block. When using high performance roller
   lifters, the spreader bar may hit the lifter top surface. This surface was raised to add meat to the lifter area so BBC lifters can be used. If using a .200 offset lifter you will need to have the bar raised .300 higher or mill the top of the lifter bores.
6. Check the main bearing clearance with the bearings that you plan to use. Again, different bearing manufacturers have different
   clearances. Mains are finished to low/mid spec. Line hone if needed.
7. Check the clearances on the crank radius to the caps/bearings to make sure that the bearings are not riding on the radius.
   Torque the caps the same as a stock block.
8. The crank clearance to the block will need to be checked. Have at least .060” of clearance to all surfaces on the block. Check all
   counterweights and rods. The front dowel pin corner may need to be ground and the block near the rear crank balance weight
   may need to be ground.
9. The rear crank bearing oil hole may need to be slotted .030 back to make sure that the oil has a clear path to the bearing.
   Again, the bearing that you use may have a different oil hole location.
10. Cam clearance is set to be stock. Check this out also.
11. Install oil restrictors in the lifter bores for your own specs. Most people are using .030 restrictors.
12. Plate hone your block. AllPontiac.com has a free loaner. You will have to pay UPS shipping from and to AllPontiac.com.
13. Check the 1 ¼” NPT tap holes in the rear of your block to make sure that the plugs will go flush. Or you may need to grind them
    flush. The machine cannot tap them to full depth.
14. Use your head to determine which water holes that may need to be drilled in the block for water passages to the head.
    Drill the same amount of holes as your heads. We are dry decking the block to be drilled by you to your particular head water
    jacket pattern.
15. The distributor hole has the stock clearance. In some cases you may need to hone out with a brake hone to deburr the hole so
    the distributor will go in. Also check the distribution shaft length.
16. The registered main blocks have the pan rail lowered 1/8”. You will need to have a longer oil pump drive shaft. The oil pan front
    lip will need 2 cork gaskets or just tap the pan lip back to the timing cover to change the clearance by 1/8”.
17. The oil pump housing on some pumps may hit the rear bearing cap by 1/16”. Just grind the pump housing back. do from now on.

Washing

You must thoroughly clean your block including bores, oil galleys and water jackets.
To reduce rust and corrosion, wash with hot water and soap. Rinse with hot water first, then rinse again with cold water.